The Electra Forums

Yeah, that's the guy.

I know what you mean. It's not worth overloading your circuits. If I lose my place in a song when I'm sitting in with a band, I just go to G and wait. The rest of the band will eventually come back to G. They always do...

LOL, I love it...I have to steal that technique!

Carefull if you are working with singers, they like A flat.

What are the advantages of using MPC modules as opposed to feeding signal through a modern multiple digital effects processor?

Simply a matter of taste. Some players like vintage analog pedals, others like the modern digital stuff.

I think most owners would admit that these effects are a bit primitive, both in design and control, I mean you've only got one adjustment knob on the guitar per module. I've noticed a sharp drop off in volume when most of the modules are engaged, and more than a little hiss too.

On the plus side, they are right there on the guitar so you don't have to mess with extra patch cables and tripping on boxes on the floor, that, and the coolness factor of using something that is so unusual. I still have people look at the MPC's that have never seen them before, which is always a nice opportunity to spread the word.

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Electra Guitar Videos ===> http://www.youtube.com/user/mjm33mjm?feature=watch

This is at least a part of what drew me to the MPC stuff to begin with. When I'm working with a band in the studio, sometimes it's useful to have an "ace in the hole" to help inspire, distract, confuse, amuse, or bewilder them. Breaking out a strange instrument, amp, effect, or tone can help jump start the creative thinking. Many times I've pulled out the MPC system, thrown a couple modules in, and simply handed the guitar over to the player. Inevitably, they end up smiling and laughing at what an oddity it is, and how much fun it is to play. Maybe the MPC makes it on the track, maybe they put it down an pick up their own guitar again-- doesn't matter, as long as it helps the momentum of the session. And even though it's kind of flexible, there are a very limited amount of parameters in the MPC system, so guys don't get "lost in the menus," which can happen on the modern multi-effect units. You know, you can edit presets, change parameters, and tweak on some of the new boxes all day. In the end, they still usually sound like junk!

If an MPC system isn't an ace in the hole, it's at least a wild card!

It's the ultimate "plug and play".

As a teenager never having any effects until my MPC with the tone spec, octave, phase and treb/bass boost and then the reverb and distortion on my amp, It was pretty cool (still is). Didnt know I needed any other knobs so it was kinda simple. Just having those three mods with the tone spec then and now, gives a pretty broad range. Maybe that was the intent to use the tone spec to dail in the mod to your taste? I played around with it and at that time could get pretty much any sound that I was going for then Or close to what I thought it was. And like Pro said, The look on their faces when you hit the switch and the phase washes through.

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SlmGuy

I have a broken flanger module (low output). I was either going to try and swap all of the caps or just build a fuzz face on it. The module housing is slowing me down.

How did you open yours without breaking it? Or did you break it? I have the embossed version if the module.

While I am here had anyone figured out where to get cards that are compatible with the mpc? I would love to build a bunch of different stuff.



Thanks

If you are uncomfortable working on it you could sell it. You should state that it works but is low output.

To correctly take it apart you have to remove the knobs that is sometimes not easy to do. Don't break them or snap the plastic shaft of the pot. If you do you have to replace it or manage to glue it and neither will be fun. You will have to 'lift' the knobs out from the top of the module. The only way I know is to gently pry until can grip with fingers or a tool. After you can work at the cap seam and pry with a tool like an xacto knife to pop it loose. Remove the cap. Slide out the board from inside the module box.

Look at all the electrolytic caps (tantalum or tear drops) and note the values and direction they are installed and order and replace.

There are boards out there. I documented on this page at one time some numbers Remind me in a day or two and I will look it up for you. I am current away for work.

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Thorny

Thanks Thorny!
I am also about to PM for a thorny mod on my Power Overdrive.

I will let you know how the Flanger disassembly goes.

Luke

The prototyping board you can buy (if you can find one) is labeled Sunhayato UK-10P-67 It was made in Japan a long time ago. A friend of mine picked me up some after a trip. The edge connector fits just right.

I don't know where to tell you to find them but they are out there if you can find them.

You'd have to solder your components on the board, then jumper all of them together as needed and jumper to the edge connector section. It might work well for relatively simple FX like boosts, fuzzes, or distortions.

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Thorny