The Electra Forums

I have got a little problem on my latest aquisition, a Westone Pantera X 300. From the front it looks more or less perfect, but on the back it has a bad dent in the painting where the wood can be seen through. I don´t want to repaint the whole guitar, but this thing nerves me (and perhaps even gets bigger by the time due to touching it when playing it).
What can I do ?
Oh, by the way, one other question, one of the single coils in the neck position is gone, no signal at all, although properly wired. I also can´t measure any resistance (?), so I guess its blown. Does anybody feel inclined to sell me one out of your big collections ?!? Please ?!?

Thanks in advance

Oliver !

P.S.: I have re-done my guitar webpage, perhaps you like to take a look : www.iqui.de

Hi Oliver!

I'm sure I have an extra single coil I'd be willing to donate to the project.

Also, some advice on repairing the spot. First, realize that the paint on these guitars is catalyzed urethane epoxy, exactly the same as on cars- in fact, Matsumoku often used Toyota colors.

I don't know whether your auto parts stores auf Deutschland will have Toyota touch-up paint, but I imagine Toyotas are sold there, yes? There is a bright red Toyota color that matches the Electra Phoenixes and Westone Spectrums, Dynastys and such, and it looks to me like the same on the red Panteras. So look for a bottle of red touchup paint.

Also, you'll need some Super Glue, or AC cement, and if possible a bottle of accelerator, which makes the super glue dry instantly. (Maybe Conrad?)

Is the hole all the way down to the wood, or is there a primer underneath? If it's bare wood, you'll want to use some primer, just any normal enamel primer is fine. It will help make sure the new paint sticks to the wood.

Use the touch-up paint to color the spot. Don't worry that it won't fill the crater. Then fill the hole with super glue. You'll probably need to apply it several times, as Super Glue shrinks when it dries. It will weld itself seamlessly into the existing finish- which is why the accelerator helps be sure it has all hardened again. Build the Super Glue up above the existing finish, then use a razor blade to scrape it level. Sand with 600 grit, then 2000 grit sandpaper. Then polish it to perfection with hand rubbing compound.

This process is called 'drop filling' and anyone who repairs such damage to auto finish can also tell you how to do it.

You can also see pictures here:

http://www.matsumoku.org/ggboard/viewtopic.php?t=2309

PM me and we can talk about the pickup. You also may be able to repair it- Crusty is our resident expert, he has saved many and helped others do the same- read about it here:

http://www.matsumoku.org/ggboard/viewtopic.php?t=2808

Hi Paul,
thank You very much for all Your suggestions about the restoration processes of our babies.
I have only few questions for You before proceeding:

- How can I do to make the restored part bright and shiny after the process?

- Could the razor blade and the sandpaper make damage into the bright of the existing finish around the crater?

- is it possible to use also modelling acrylic paint in black (obviously only for black guitars)?

Cheers

Vic

You return it to bright and shiny by the final polishing. The 600 grit make sit smooth and the 2000 grit gets rid of scratches fromt he 600 grit.

You would think that scraping could damage the area around but in practice if you're careful you only remove what sticks up above the level surface- it's easier than it sounds. You might practice on a scrap first however.

You can actually use anything you like to color the surface underneath, but beware of black, as there are many different shades of black, most are not 100% black, especially on guitars, some are greyish, some are a warm black, others cool. you jsut have to experiment.

I use the Duplicolor brand of auto touch-up paint, and they make a 'Universal Flat black' that is a very exact match for the black on many Matt guitars- for instance it's the same as the black necka nd headstock on an Electra/Westone.

Many thanks Paul, kind and precise as usual.