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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 12:21 pm 
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The previous owner ripped a big hole between the two rear cavities. So I was able to pull the mpc part out without cutting those particular wires.

So I will follow your advice Jead and just shrink-tube that joint in the red wire and then solder the black battery clip lead to the 3rd lug of the output jack.

I will keep you guys informed and let you know how it turns out and post pics too. Of course if it doesn't work, I'll be crying. LOL

Thanks for helping out such a newbie to the forum.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:52 pm 
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right. the stereo switch is what's used to "turn on" the power for the circuitry... and why you can't leave a cord plugged into the guitar, or you'll be going through batteries like mad :)


I forgot I put Steve's Updated diagrams here...
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5208

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:05 am 
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So I have all the electronics back in the guitar and I am getting a signal coming out of the output jack but I have another HUGE problem. I have a serious back-bow on the neck. The truss rod is out of the picture(completely loose truss rod nut) and I have it strung up and to pitch and I still have a pretty bad back-bow. I even tuned it up a full two steps sharp and let it sit a couple of days with a pile of books on the face of the guitar with the neck propped up.

Does anyone have any suggestions for this problem? I've heard of people steaming the wood and putting the weight on it. Does anyone have any experience with a problem like this?

It would really suck if I can't fix this. I've put so much work into this guitar. I think when this guitar last had its strings removed (long before I owned it) someone never untightened the truss rod not. When I bought the guitar 3 or 4 years ago, that was the first thing I did to it (loosen the truss rod nut) but it must have been too late already.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:13 am 
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First, I'm not sure ihe truss rod is two way on the X330 - Can you take out the neck PUP and check? Since it's loosened all the way it doesn't really matter anyhow. Most times really heavy strings can pull aneck back into shape. If that doesn't work it's time for more extreme measures. I lifted the following from another site:

Depending where the backbow is centered, say dead center of the neck for example you can make a jig of sorts that has a block under the center of the fretboard (fretboard face down). Then you can use a clamp on either end of the neck to GENTLY force the neck true while applying heat to the neck/fretboard. Make darn sure your TR is LOOSE first. Slowly apply heat across the neck and gently tighten the clamps on each end of the neck near the heel and 1st fret area. It will move and if you've done it right and got it warm enough but not too hot the neck will return to flat or maybe even some relief in it. Leave it clamped a bit after removing the heat to cool down to ambient temps and if can be corrected that just might do it.

I'd be careful about too much heat because you could loosen the fingerboard - that said, this is about the only way I know of to fix a bad backbow.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:54 pm 
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Just posting an update. I'm sorry I haven't posted any pics. I'll eventually get to it.

So I bought a heavy gage set of strings, some acoustic 13s and put a slide nut adapter on it and raised the bridge really high....for more leverage. I also cranked those strings to about 2 to 2.5 steps sharp for more tension on the neck. If I put a straight edge on it now, I have a little relief on the neck....which is good. But I don't know how long I'll have to leave it like that for the relief to stay. This guitar was intended as a high school graduation present for my son. He graduates in a month or so. I'm hoping it's playable by then. Wish me luck!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:26 pm 
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nickc35 wrote:
Just posting an update. I'm sorry I haven't posted any pics. I'll eventually get to it.

So I bought a heavy gage set of strings, some acoustic 13s and put a slide nut adapter on it and raised the bridge really high....for more leverage. I also cranked those strings to about 2 to 2.5 steps sharp for more tension on the neck. If I put a straight edge on it now, I have a little relief on the neck....which is good. But I don't know how long I'll have to leave it like that for the relief to stay. This guitar was intended as a high school graduation present for my son. He graduates in a month or so. I'm hoping it's playable by then. Wish me luck!


This is the part where I'd wrap the neck in a damp towel and zap it with a heat gun or hair dryer. Steam would be better. Is the truss rod situation a lost cause? Getting the neck close with string tension is good. Keeping it there when tension is normal is key - thats why I'd try some steam/heat treatment. If it shows some improvement but still is bad - I'd repeat the whole process. If all else fails, the neck would have to come off, then the fingerboard then planing. Not fun - but if the truss rod is busted, that's the only repair option I know of.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:52 pm 
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The steam treatment with the heatr should help out the wood a great deal. I agree that it may have to be repeated several times to get the neck back in shape. Truss rod removal is not an easy task at all. The Vantage 12 string that I won from the first Electrafest had to have the neck steamed and removed to replace the truss rod. I was fortunate that I had a good luthier local that could do it. Good luck and I hope it works out. :up:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:57 am 
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As an alternative, you could have relief sanded into the fretboard. That would require a re-fret but would be less intrusive then removing the fretboard. If you go that way, get it done by a pro.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 2:03 pm 
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There's nothing wrong with the truss rod. It's obviously not a double action truss rod unfortunately.

This guitar didn't have any frets on it when I bought. I am the one who did the refret so I am probably gonna just let it sit for a while as it is with the heavy strings and the action literally a half inch off the fretboard. And eventually try the heat thing. I actually think it will eventually work out fine and this will be a great playing guitar for my son. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. : :up:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:27 pm 
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That's a good story. Keep us informed on the outcome. :up:


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:08 am 
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The steam,hunidity, and heat can work wonders with wood.Good luck. :up:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:09 pm 
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Interesting I have an X330 myself that had exactly trhe same type of back bow.

See thread viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4248

I tried heating all sorts but could not get the neck to be straight without severe tension. What I did was defret and use a radius black and sandpaper and and it flat (checking with a straight edge) then refret dress the frets and rre strung and it then had a very small neck relief (so I could tighten the truss rod just a little) It is a great player now and my number one guitar.

I have not been ont he forum for some time but this is a great place for information. I had no electrics so installed a 3 band EQ and standard les paul switching. Great guitars!

Stewart


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 5:42 pm 
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Image


Last edited by nickc35 on Sat May 14, 2011 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 5:50 pm 
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I really feel like a freaking idiot. Why is it so difficult to post pics on this forum? :mad2:

I followed the instructions but no matter how I change the text when I go in to edit the picture won't display.

I finally took a bunch of pics and want to share. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong!


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:03 pm 
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